Franklin Forest - Off the Beaten Path

BY BOB BUTTERS

One of the South Cumberland region’s lesser-known outdoor recreation opportunities is Franklin State Forest, which straddles the border of Marion and Franklin Counties about 45 miles west of Chattanooga. Originally named Franklin-Marion State Forest, today it’s commonly referred to simply as Franklin Forest, and following a couple of additions in recent years, now covers around 8,800 acres. 

The Tennessee Division of Forestry began managing the land, which was highly degraded, as a state forest in 1940, following its acquisition from the Cross Creek Coal Company. Today, most of the land is forested, primarily in hardwoods with a smaller percentage in pines. It’s a working forest, with timber harvesting taking place at various times and locations. The major outdoor recreational uses are hunting, horseback riding, and off-roading, with less-utilized opportunities for hiking, mountain biking, and camping.

Franklin Forest contains close to 20 miles of hiking trails, which are also used by horseback riders and mountain bikers. Popular hikes are along the West Rim and North Rim Trails, which follow the respective bluff lines along Sweden Cove, in the northwestern part of the forest. A somewhat newer trail follows the bluffs and boundaries along the western side of the forest, providing the opportunity for an extensive loop hike. A popular trailhead location is the forest’s on-site headquarters, located just inside the northern entrance on Highway 156 and consisting of an unoccupied manager residence, an old log cabin, and a number of outbuildings. An adjacent meadow provides parking for horseback riders and off-roaders. A trail across the road from the parking area leads to the aforementioned rim trails. Another trail behind the complex of buildings leads to a small lake and camping area, as well as a relatively short loop trail to Tom Pack Falls, one of the forest’s more popular hiking destinations. The best views of Sweden Cove can be reached via several overlooks along the North Rim Trail.

In addition to trails the forest contains a maze of jeep roads, many of which aren’t shown on maps, that range from well-maintained gravel to rougher dirt routes better suited for four-wheel-drive vehicles. And some are closed to motor vehicles. Many of these are also great for mountain biking and provide additional access points for the hiking trails.

A gravel road just south of the forest headquarters leads to the small lake with about a half-dozen primitive campsites. Keep in mind that this area doesn’t get closed off to the outside world at night, nor does it get regular visits from the ranger as would be the case with a more developed park.

Backcountry camping is permitted anywhere in the forest but is encouraged in the designated spots. Backpackers may set up camp anywhere along hiking trails. All campers are requested to leave a clean campsite.   

A word of caution

The trails seem to get more use from horses than hikers or bikers, but that helps keep them open and followable. They also tend to be fairly well blazed. That said, the trails tend to not be well marked as far as names or directional signage is concerned, nor is it easy to determine mileage, so they’re best approached with a good map or GPS unit and decent navigational skills. With those conditions met, Franklin Forest offers plenty of trails for the adventurous to explore.

In addition, bear in mind that, unlike Prentice Cooper State Forest, Franklin Forest is not also a wildlife management area with restricted hunting schedules, but is open for hunting in accordance with regular state seasons. 

Part of a larger wildlands complex      

Franklin State Forest is just part of an expansive area of protected or publicly accessible recreational lands. Follow the gravelled Old CCC Road, a short distance south of the forest headquarters, to the 3,075 acre recent addition to South Cumberland State Park known as Sherwood Forest. A three-mile loop trail is under construction there, with about 75% currently completed and open to the public. A round trip hike of about a mile will take you to an impressive natural bridge and a spectacular overlook of Lost Cove and the Crow Creek watershed. This tract is home to nine rare plant species as well as the threatened painted snake coiled forest snail. Note that hunting is allowed here during deer gun season and spring turkey season. Hunters are required to check in with State Park headquarters beforehand.  

The Sherwood Forest tract adjoins the 930-acre Carter State Natural Area, another unit of South Cumberland State Park and home to Lost Cove Cave, popularly known as Buggytop Cave. The cave, which can be reached via a four-mile round trip hike from Highway 56, is the source of Crow Creek and drains Lost Cove, an 18,000-acre enclosed-valley sinkhole. The Buggytop entrance is one of the largest cave entrances in Tennessee.    

These lands adjoin the 13,000-acre Sewanee: University of the South domain, much of which is forested land available for public recreation such as hiking and mountain biking, and featuring over 50 miles of trails. In turn the Sewanee domain connects to Hawkins Cove State Natural Area, a 262-acre tract created to preserve the rare Cumberland Rosinweed, and a more than 5,000-acre segment of the Bear Hollow Mountain Wildlife Management Area. Thus altogether, Franklin Forest is part of approximately 30,000 acres of contiguous publicly-accessible recreational lands.

So if you’re feeling a bit adventurous and looking to explore a place that falls somewhere between a wilderness and a more developed park, give Franklin State Forest a closer look.

More informatioN:

Franklin State Forest website

Franklin Forest road and trail map

Note: This map doesn’t show the new 986-acre addition, which is in the inset area in the southwest corner and is accessible for non-motorized uses.

Trailhead and trail info for Sherwood Forest and Buggytop Cave.

Sewanee trail maps

Find directions here.

Note: These take you to the junction of Hwy. 156 and Old CCC Road, a short distance south of the forest headquarters trailhead.